Day 1 — the wall and the old city
- 09:00 City Wall, south gate. Rent a bicycle and ride the 14 km loop — 90 minutes at a relaxed pace.
- 12:00 Lunch: biangbiang noodles near Shuyuanmen.
- 14:00 Shaanxi History Museum (free but book ahead) or the Small Wild Goose Pagoda.
- 17:00 Bell Tower and Drum Tower, then into the Muslim Quarter as it wakes up.
- 19:00 Eat: roujiamo, yangrou paomo, persimmon cakes, lamb skewers. This is dinner.
Day 2 — the warriors
- 07:30 Depart for the Terracotta Army, arrive at opening.
- 08:30 Pit 3, then Pit 2, then Pit 1 — the reverse of the tour-group order.
- 12:00 Return to the city for lunch.
- 14:00 Big Wild Goose Pagoda and the surrounding square.
- 19:00 Tang Paradise night show, or a dumpling banquet if you prefer to sit down.
Day 3 — either Huaqing or Huashan
Eating, specifically
- Roujiamo (肉夹馍) — braised pork in flatbread. ¥12. The best are in the Muslim Quarter side alleys, not the main street.
- Yangrou paomo (羊肉泡馍) — lamb soup with torn bread. ¥35. Tear the bread yourself; that is the ritual.
- Biangbiang noodles — wide hand-pulled noodles with chilli oil. ¥25.
- Huimin Jie — the Muslim Quarter main street is touristy; the parallel alleys are where locals eat.
Xi’an North station is 40 minutes from the centre. Allow for it when booking the onward train to Chengdu or Beijing.
Frequently asked
How many days do you need in Xi’an?+
Two full days for the essentials, three if you add Mount Hua.
Is the Terracotta Army worth it?+
Yes — it is genuinely astonishing in person, and Pit 1 is one of the great rooms in the world.
What food is Xi’an famous for?+
Roujiamo, biangbiang noodles, yangrou paomo, and the Muslim Quarter’s lamb skewers.